Leather or suede: how each wears and how to care for it
Smooth leather is the easier material for a bag you carry every day in any weather: it is wiped dry and treated now and then with a colourless cream. Suede is softer to the eye and the hand and holds colour deeply, but it asks for a brush, a protective spray and a dry day. Both are natural leather; what differs is the surface, and the care that surface needs.
What the difference actually is
Smooth leather is the outer surface of the hide: even, with a slight sheen, cool to the touch. Suede is leather with a raised nap: matte, velvety, and it changes tone when you run a hand across it. Patent leather is smooth leather under a glossy finish. We work with all three, and each one changes how the same shape looks. A Carolyn tote in black smooth leather is graphic; the same tote in choco suede reads softer and warmer.
Side by side
| Smooth leather | Suede | Patent leather | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Look | Even surface, slight sheen | Matte, velvety nap, deep colour | High gloss |
| Rain | Light rain is fine: blot and let it dry. Avoid heavy rain | Keep it dry. If it gets wet, let it dry on its own, then brush | Wipe dry |
| Regular care | Soft dry cloth; colourless cream every few months | Suede brush in one direction; protective spray | Soft, slightly damp cloth, then a dry one |
| Never | Alcohol wipes, radiators, coloured creams | Water, creams, rubbing a stain | Heat, sharp objects, contact with dark textiles |
| Over time | Softens; corners and the places you touch most show gentle wear | The nap flattens where it is touched and lifts again with a brush | Keeps its shine if stored apart |
| Good for | Every day, any season | Dry days, autumn and winter wardrobes, evenings | An accent of colour |
How to care for smooth leather
- After wearing, wipe the bag with a soft dry cloth.
- Every few months, apply a thin layer of colourless cream for smooth leather. Test it first on a hidden spot.
- If the bag gets wet, blot it gently and let it dry at room temperature, away from radiators and hair dryers.
- Do not use alcohol wipes or coloured creams: they change the surface.
How to care for suede
- Before the first wear, use a water-repellent spray made for suede.
- Brush with a soft suede brush, always in one direction.
- If it gets wet, do nothing at first. Let it dry on its own at room temperature, then brush the nap back up.
- Do not rub a stain, and do not use water or creams.
How to care for patent leather
A soft, slightly damp cloth keeps the shine; wipe it dry afterwards. Store a patent bag apart from other bags and from printed paper, because colour can pass onto a glossy surface. Keep it away from heat and sharp objects.
Storage is the same for all three
- Fill the bag with tissue paper so the body keeps its shape.
- Keep it in its dust bag, standing upright, not stacked under other bags.
- Away from direct sun, radiators and damp rooms.
- Do not leave it hanging by the handles for long.
- Suede needs air: no plastic bags.
Metal parts are wiped with a soft dry cloth. Keep perfume, hand cream and sanitiser away from them.
How we use each material
We choose the material for the shape, and sometimes we mix them. On the suede Jane Tote the body is suede and the handles are smooth leather: the part your hands touch most is the part that is easiest to care for. The suede Carolyn has an eco-leather lining that keeps its sides straight. Elza, a soft clutch, is made in three suedes. The olive Untitled is patent leather.
So which one?
If it is your one bag for work, rain included, choose smooth leather. If you already have that bag and want something for dry days and evenings, suede gives a depth of colour that smooth leather does not. Light suede shows marks sooner than dark, so choco or navy is the calmer start. See all suede bags and leather bags; the full instructions are in our care guide.
FAQ
Can a suede bag get wet?
It is better kept dry. If it does get wet, let it dry on its own at room temperature, away from heat, and then brush the nap in one direction. A water-repellent spray for suede before the first wear helps.
Which is easier to look after, leather or suede?
Smooth leather. It needs a dry cloth after wearing and a colourless cream every few months. Suede needs a brush and a protective spray, and should stay out of the rain.
Can I use a coloured cream on a leather bag?
No. Use only a colourless cream made for smooth leather, in a thin layer, and test it on a hidden spot first. Coloured or unsuitable creams can change the surface, and such damage is not covered by the warranty.
How should I store a leather or suede bag?
Filled with tissue paper, in its dust bag, standing upright, away from sun, radiators and damp. Do not hang it by the handles for long, and do not keep suede in plastic.
Does the warranty cover wear on leather?
Every Poelle piece has a 1-year warranty from the day of delivery for manufacturing defects in seams, hardware, construction, lining and material. Natural wear, water damage and damage from improper care are not covered.
